One of many K-beauty sunscreens launched after what I refer to as the Great Korean Sunscreen Controversy, or โGKSCโ for short, is theย Soon Jung Directorโs Moisture Sun Cream from Etude.ย Iโm sure many of you already know the story but hereโs a quick rundown of what happened.
In 2021, some Korean cosmetic companies were found to be intentionally lyingย about their sunscreensโ UVA and UVB label claims.ย Theyย exploited legal loopholes inย lax cosmetic regulations.ย (After a product received KFDA approval and has undergone in vivoย SPF/UVA tests, the manufacturer is allowed to make changes to its formula without having to retest.) When confronted with proof, brands decided to point fingers, feign ignorance, or simply remain silent instead of taking accountability.
Soon Jung Directorโs Moisture Sun Creamย is a collaboration with Director Pi, a popularย Korean beauty creator on YouTube.ย Sheโs aย former beauty editor that often speaks about cosmetic safety and product formulas based on EWG ratings. Its blurb says it has a clean, vegan, reef-friendlyย formula with tiger grass (akaย โcicaโ) to soothe and moisturise skin. Most importantly, it boasts to be a โverified sunscreenโ. Apparently, it has been tested to meet its SPF and UVA label claims.
The sunscreen is very wearable but absolutely not the sort of feel or finish youโd expect from the name.ย Its texture is akin to Japanese sunscreen essence โ aย fresh, lightweight texture that doesnโt leave the skin sticky or tight. I just apply and forget that itโs even on.ย Itย has aย slightly matte finish but none of the dullness. My normal skin detects just a hint of hydration. Very elegant in feel, it slips across the skin beautifully but never feels greasy.
Many post-GKSC Korean sunscreens say their UV label claimsย have been tested to be true.ย I canโt help but wonder whether theyโre telling the truth.ย Regaining a customerโs trust takes time and effort. Most brands failed to take accountability. They are onlyย sorry because they got caught. What makes their claims believable now? Is it because they have (often blurry and half-concealed) screenshots of the test results in their banner advertisements as evidence? These can be very easily edited or forged. They arenโtย enough to proveย anything. These brandsโย lack of accountability makes their claims ring hollow.
I can see that Etude Soon Jung Directorโs Moisture Sun Cream will have a huge appeal to K-beauty lovers who perhaps donโt already useย an SPF on regular basis. Itโs soย pleasant to use and sits brilliantly beneath makeup. If your skin isย dry youโll want a standalone moisturiser underneath.
Price-wise, itโs on a par with Allie and Anessa sunscreens. Itโs listed for US$30 ย (global) / โฉ25,000 (Korea) / ยฅ2,750 (Japan) for 50ml, which is nearly double the price of Etudeโs other sunscreens. Surprisingly expensive, but thereโsย always aย sale running.ย YesStyle has it for aroundย US$18.ย Olive Young Global, where I bought mine,ย currently has a 2-for-1 set with an additional 30% off.
While I find the sunscreen enjoyable to use, I can only see myself reaching for it on cool, cloudy days. Its lack of resistance to anything meansย I wouldnโt ever use it underneath a mask orย when itโs getting warm outside. I find the verified SPF claims absolutelyย ridiculous. Like parents wanting credit for providing food and shelter to their children. Is the expectation so low for K-beauty that doingย the bare minimum is somehow an achievement? ย Yes, it seems so.
I went ahead and bought this at full price. Itโs okay but I wish I didnโt. Iโll use it up for everyday wear but the Biore light up essence is wayyyy better and so much cheaper.
I paid $16 for mine and I feel the same. Iโm happy to use it up for everyday wear but not a sunscreen Iโd personally repurchase even on sale.
What did you prefer about the Biore Light Up Essence? I tried that one because it was a โBest Pickโ and I really hate it. I hate that itโs so shiny on my face (because of the shimmer โ it makes me look like a disco ball), never dries down, and breaks up on my face in the middle of the day. I also hate the heavy fragrance. I havenโt tried the Biore Watery Essence though, so I couldnโt compare to that. I vastly prefer the Skin Aqua UV line. Iโm wondering if I would like this Etude Soon Jung one or not.
I have to agree with you. After the sunscreen controversy, Iโve found it very hard to trust K-Beauty sunscreens. Iโve bought a few, worn them 1-2x indoors, and then relegate them to the bottom of my drawer. I still canโt trust them to wear them outside (especially against the desert sun). I know SPF fails arenโt limited to South Korea, but stillโฆ
Has the KFDA even fixed the loophole with allowed this fiasco to happen in the first place? If not, I donโt think anyone should rely on Korean sunscreens for sun productionโฆbrands claiming that their products have been tested means next to nothing IMO.
As far as Iโm aware, no. In fact, I donโt think theyโve even made any statements regarding this whole controversy.
Iโve tried wearing this a few times to work, and I end up scrubbing it off my face each time. I have rosacea and this irritates my skin like no other. Funnily enough Iโve found sunscreens with alcohol in them that cause less redness. I do have exceptionally sensitive skin tho, so I wonโt hold it against this one. I will however say I hated how one day I rubbed my eye and it just peeled off my skin in visible clumps. Like you said this is not super moisturizing and needs moisturizer underneath, and Iโm not willing to change up my moisturizer to try and fix that problem.
This was an expensive purchase, but it looks like I should have just bought Allie again this year. I was cautious because of the new โcoral reef safe,โ ingredients. But itโs gotta be better than this was.
Iโve never found a kr sunscreen I like, and like you they havenโt done much to assure me that they work like they say they do.
Thanks for the review.
I was hoping that this would be a nice moisturiser with SPF option, but it was barely moisturising on my normal skin. Itโs absurdly expensive for what it is. Thereโs no reason why an Etude sunscreen costs more at retail than Allie and Anessa.
Sorry, just a quick question. What is the biggest difference on how japan and korea rule any spf containing product? I heard japan asks for in vivo uva and uvb testing. I assume that happens when a brand reformulate its products as well. My question, is there any rules in japan that will fine a brand whenever they fail to meet their claim? How japan prevents sort of things that happen in Korea? Thank you
Japan requires SPF and UVA tests performed according to in-vivo ISO 24444 & ISO 24442/3 protocols. Each version/formula is tested separately. Thereโs zero chance a sunscreen is allowed to be released into the market using test results from another formula. These loopholes that are currently in South Korean regulations donโt exist in Japan.