The Complete Guide to Japanese Cosmetics Expiration Dates

All beauty products expire. Eventually, they lose their quality, become less effective, and can even become harmful to your skin as a result of bacteria buildup over time.

Figuring out when you should throw away your beauty products can be hard because it’s not quite as clear as it is for food products.

What The Law Says

According to Japan’s MHLW (Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare), cosmetics aren’t required to give an expiration date if the unopened product is safe to use for at least 3 years after the manufacturing date under optimal storage conditions.

For example, the manufacturing date and PAO are printed on Fancl products because most only have 1 year of shelf life.

To give you some perspective, the EU requires an expiration date only if the shelf life is less than 30 months (a PAO is required for products that have a shelf life longer than 30 months). The US, on the other hand, currently has no law or regulations that require cosmetics to have expiration dates, specific shelf lives, or PAO on the labels.

Period After Opening

The open jar symbol refers to the amount of time a product will stay good for after it’s originally opened.

The period-after-opening (PAO) symbol isn’t used in Japan. The recommended PAO varies depending on the product, brand, and individual formulas.

Most Japanese sources say products should be used within 3–6 months (or at least within a year) after opening unless otherwise indicated. Generally speaking, PAO tends to be shorter for products that are marketed to be “additive-free” in Japan.

For example, the PAO for Fancl products is generally just 2–3 months since they do not contain added preservatives.

It’s also important to note that PAO is a guideline. It indicates the amount of time a product is guaranteed to remain stable and safe after opening. They may be fine to use even after that but you will need to use your five senses to make a judgment call. When in doubt, throw it out.

Here’s a breakdown of how long each J-beauty product is good for after opening:

  • Cleansing oil: 1 year
  • Lotion (a.k.a. toner) and serum: 3 months
  • Milk-type moisturiser: 4-5 months
  • Face cream: 6 months
  • Sunscreen: 3–6 months
  • All other skin care products: 6–12 months
  • Primer, liquid/cream foundation, and concealer: 6–12 months
  • Mascara and liquid eyeliner: 2–3 months
  • Lipstick and lipgloss: 6–12 months

What about product samples?
from my blogpost in 2019

Most Japanese companies say product samples have a much shorter shelf life and PAO than full-size products due to their simplified packaging. Shelf life is generally just a year and they should be used ASAP.

If you’re not using a fresh sample, you most likely not going to know what the product is actually supposed to be like.

Optimal Storage Conditions

Shelf life and PAO both assume the product is stored under optimal conditions.

What that means:

No extreme temperature. Normal storage conditions is defined as a dry, well-ventilated place at temperatures between 15–25 °C (59°-77°F).
No major fluctuations in temperature. Contrary to popular belief, you should not refridgerate cosmetic products. Temperature needs to be constant and stable to maximise lifespan, which a standard household refridgerator doesn’t give.
No direct sunlight.
Once opened, the lids and caps should be tighten/secure after each use. Any excess that might get in the way should be wiped off.

How to Determine Manufacturing Date

It’s important to remember that dates in Japan are formatted as YYYYMMDD. Some companies use the Japanese calendar which the year 2021 is Reiwa 3 (令和3年).

A few brands do print or emboss the manufacturing date on the packaging. But again, dates aren’t required for cosmetic products if the shelf life is at least 3 years.

If you’re living in Japan, freshness is a non-issue — stores stock the latest (and the old is put on clearance).

There’re 3 methods of determining the manufacturing date:

/ 3

You could try contacting the manufacturer and give them the batch code.

This is very much a hit-or-miss process, with a lot more misses than hits. Most customer services are in Japanese only. You most likely will not get an (intelligible) response if you ask in English. A lot of brands will also not give you the date — they will just tell you when the product was released.

/ 3

There are websites claiming to be able to determine the manufacturing date based on the batch codes for specific brands.

I don’t recommend using them. They are all unofficial sources and are not guaranteed to be accurate. I’ve personally tried using them with a few just-released and not-yet-released products I have and according to their calculations, they were made years ago.

/ 3

The best way to tell is by their packaging.

I’m sure most readers will know by now that Japanese products are reformulated or at least repackaged very frequently. Major cosmetic brands tend to reformulate their skincare products every 2 years or so and some even revamp their packaging annually. The brand’s official Japanese website should have images of the latest version of the product. My website thoroughly covers any changes.

You need to do quick math to figure out whether the unopened product is still good.

For example, an unopened product that was released 2019 is OK to use till at least 2022 because it would have been manfactured in 2019 or later.
What about (unopened) products that haven’t had any changes for at least 3 years?

As long as a product hasn’t been discontinued or replaced, it could have been produced at any point after the release date. They’re OK if purchased from a trusted shop (preferably based in Japan) with a high inventory turnover.

Further Reading

The content was written for RatzillaCosme.com. No paid/sponsored content. If you buy through links on this page, RatzillaCosme may earn a small commission.

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Beth
Beth
12 days ago

Do you manage to use all those samples up before the recommended use-by date?

Sal
Sal
1 month ago

Thank you so much for this post! I have to admit the constant cycle of discontinuation & revamping initially threw me off (and led to sadness when my fave products have been discontinued). I wonder if Japanese people have a similar bafflement waiting for western products to be revamped. I also wonder if there are Japanese products that are “classics”, so to speak (i.e. no formula or package changes for years/decades).

Sal
Sal
1 month ago
Reply to  G. Haruka

I never thought about it that way…I guess we take the saying “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” too seriously.

Hmm
Hmm
5 days ago
Reply to  G. Haruka

This is interesting. From my perspective, reformulations from American brands usually come without any indication and it’s rarely announced as improving the formula. Normally a random and often undesirable change is made, like moving the key ingredients further down in the list. Most people find out because the product no longer works for them anymore and respond with frustration, or they don’t notice at all.

It’s also not common to have minis/samples/trial sizes easily available, except for TSA-complaint travel-sized goods which are normally price-gouged, so it can be annoying, inconvenient, and costly to find a new replacement product.

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