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Vitamin C, Wait Time, and pH

Vitamin C, Wait Time, and pH

Do you really need to wait a certain amount of time between applying vitamin C serum or treatmentย to avoid different pH levels conflicting?

This is one skincare โ€œruleโ€ that has no scientificย backing. If you research it, for example, none of the studies that look at topical vitamin C ever use or specify any wait time. They still all displayed positive results, so waiting a set amount of time doesnโ€™t seem to matter much. A lot of variables have been tested by actual scientists, such as different formulas, and liposomes, so if someone thought that just waiting 20-30 minutes would make a difference then weโ€™d heard of it by now.

Also, how does anyone figure out that their skinโ€™s pH โ€œresetsโ€ over those arbitrary time frames? Did they measure it somehow? Because it takes a lot of factors (e.g. water quality, cleanserโ€™s formula, etc.) and is highly individual. Skin surfaceโ€™s ideal pH is not just one set value โ€” itโ€™s a broad range from pH 4.0 all the way to 6.0.ย My own skinโ€™s ideal pH and how long it takes to recover would most likely be different from yours. Itโ€™s a bit of a stretch to believe that give or take 30 minutes makes any difference. And according to one study onย PudMed, โ€œthe skin pH recovery needs time up to several hours before it can reach the physiological levelโ€.

Another thing to consider is what happens with skin moisture during those waiting periods. Even just rinsing with lukewarm water disrupts the skinโ€™s moisture barrier.ย If someoneโ€™s skin is feeling dry or tight, then a bit of moisturiser of some sort would be nice. But you canโ€™t because you have to wait, so what would these bloggers do? Let skin dehydrate for half an hour or โ€˜no vitamin C for you!โ€™?

Some say a โ€œpH-adjusting tonerโ€ can be used in lieu of (or in addition to) wait time.ย Using this kind of toner isnโ€™t enough to substantially change how effective a product with pH-dependent active is at penetrating the skin. There is simply no scientific basis for them โ€”ย they cannot instantly lower the skinโ€™s surfaceโ€™s pH in any meaningful way. Even if it does,ย pH-dependent ingredients depend on the productโ€™s formula and its pH, not theย skinโ€™s!ย If toners help the product work better in any way, itโ€™s more likely because they dampen (and soften) skin, which can enhance the absorption of certain products.

If someone sees a noticeable difference by stretching their skincare routine out, thatโ€™s perfectly fine, but that doesnโ€™t mean everyone has to subscribe to that dogma seeing as the evidence or logic for that particular habit isnโ€™t exactly rock solid.

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