Some Q&A from Instagram

Since the beginning of 2021, I’ve been holding a Q&A session at the end of every month on my Instagram Stories. I like doing it there because the nature of the feature (it disappears automatically after 24 hours) allows for a casual, off-the-cuff vibe.

For anyone who hasn’t seen them, here’s a small selection of 25 from nearly 200 questions. These questions and answers (on J-beauty or otherwise) are direct copy-paste from my original IG stories, but some are edited for grammar or clarity.

They aren’t in any particular order but I’ve grouped them into categories.

SUNSCREEN

Question: I heard that Japanese sunscreens aren’t the best for anti-UVA protection. Thoughts?

Compared to European sunscreens, right? I supposed it depends on how much importance you place on the PPD. There is a huge gap between test-lab and the real world. Many variables affecting real-life results simply cannot be taken into consideration in lab testings.

High PPD means nothing if the sunscreen doesn’t stay put on your skin. It’s vital that it stays in place. Cosmetic elegance isn’t a trivial element either. If sunscreen is sliding around or transferring off, your skin isn’t going to get anywhere near the labelled UV protection.

European sunscreens may offer better UVA protection on paper but in my experience, they’re absolutely terrible under extreme humid heat. I’d take a tenacious PPD I0 over a greasy 50 PPD any day.

Question: What Japanese sunscreen do you feel has the highest UVA protection?

My guess would be ANESSA Perfect UV Sunscreen Skincare Milk simply due to the number of technologies and patents involved.

Shiseido owns (and uses) so many patents involving microencapsulation and formulas comprising of oil-in-water emulsions and various UV filters. Other sunscreens might feel or look similar on the skin, but their formulas will not be alike at all.

Question: What is indoor sunscreen? Why can’t I use it outside? 

There is no such thing as an “indoor sunscreen”, at least not in Japan. People always seem to “credit” my website for the (frankly ridiculous and misleading) term even though I’ve never used it.

There’re 2 types of sunscreens: one for the outdoors/sports and one for normal everyday activities (e.g. on the way to work/school, a quick trip to the supermarket). This is clearly stated on the back of the packaging. (And no, water resistance isn’t the differentiating factor since most sunscreens are.)

I feel lots of people make this more complicated than it actually is. It’s just smart to heed the manufacturer’s advice, especially when it comes to sunscreen!

Question: What makes Anessa sunscreen so expensive?

“Expensive” is a relative term. Anessa is actually a budget drugstore brand in Japan. It’s generally around 2,000JPY in stores for the big-sized bottle or tube, which is in the same price range as La Roche-Posay sunscreens in Europe.

Question: Is there any sunscreen you tanned with?

I’ve tried a handful of different European La Roche-Posay & Bioderma sunscreens many years ago during a trip to Greece. Still tanned despite constantly reapplying and their purported high PPD. I’m pretty sure it was because I couldn’t get them to stay put on my skin. They were horrendously greasy and transferred onto everything the skin touched.

Question: Thoughts on the Korean sunscreen controversy?

“Told you so” was what first came to mind but I know that’s unhelpful and highly immature.

I think it’s fair to assume many longtime readers do know where I stand on K-beauty considering I’ve been flamed to high heavens so many times over the years. I don’t avoid Korean skincare products but I’ve always been leery. Sunscreen’s trustworthiness depends on the company and how strict the country’s standards are. If a brand or country doesn’t even adhere to international standards with its ingredient lists, I find it hard to trust the labels of their sunscreens.

SKINCARE

Question: What are more commonly used, popular brands of skincare in JP the west don’t know about?

Minon, Orbis, Ihada, Elixir, and Sofina IP come to mind.

A lot of Japanese skincare brands that are super popular in the West aren’t as popular in Japan as Western media/bloggers make them out to be.

Question: What is your opinion are the most underrated products you have tried?

Most underrated? I have to think about that because a lot of products never get mentioned by (English-speaking) “influencers” are actually quite popular in Japan.

How about I name 2 brands I think are very overrated? Hada Labo and Skin Aqua!

Question: Can you suggest any pH-balanced cleanser in Japan?

There isn’t much to suggest since slightly acidic (ph-balanced) cleansers aren’t really a thing in Japan.

Question: Best Japanese toner for hydration?

“Best” is entirely subjective.

I personally prefer them to do more than basic hydration so ones that hydrate skin and don’t do much else are simply not going to cut it for me.

I personally like Orbis U Lotion, IPSA The Time R Aqua, and IHADA medicated Lotion.

Question: What’s your favorite type of skincare product? Ones you always get excited about trying.

It’s product-specific rather than type or brand. I’m most excited about trying products that I’m genuinely interested in and would consider buying. That could be due to new innovations, unusual formulas word-of-mouth, nice packaging, or even just clever marketing.

Question: Thoughts on skincare treatments like lasers to get rid of dark spots, smooth texture??

Well worth it (if it’s the right type for your skin) since it gives quick and very tangible results. Skincare products will never have as much effect as peel, IPL, or other procedures — they will only work superficially. For me, they’re mostly for maintenance.

If a skincare product doesn’t deliver some sort of visible benefits in at least a few weeks of regular use then it’s not really going to do much. It’s just not worth the time wasted, the effort, and the money waiting for results that most likely won’t come.

Question: Your thoughts on at-home microcurrent devices and LED masks?

Home gadgets will never deliver results comparable to professional devices or deliver results you read about in research studies.

It’s not the wavelengths, that are easy to achieve. The problem with them is they lack power and cannot emit enough energy to deliver positive results.  Home gadgets have <1mW/cm² output density whereas actual proven LED devices like the Omnilux have 10–100 mW/cm² or more. That’s why at-home devices rarely put those specs on the box — they don’t have the power. The wavelengths the diodes emit are also quite damaging to the eyes so the manufacturer simply limits the power output to avoid lawsuits.

Additional things like what generation the LEDs are will also make a difference. Even the more powerful LED panels in clinics aren’t the first treatment choice for anything anymore.

TLDR — at-home LED devices are just smoke and mirrors. I think they’re borderline quackery.

MAKEUP & HAIR

Question: Any holy grail or personal favorite makeup items (base & color)?

These.

Question: What is a “tone up” cream or what does it mean when something has a “tone up”  effect?

In Japan, “tone up” products are meant to instantly brighten dull, lacklustre complexion or colour correct skin tone while imparting radiance. That very fair, unnatural whitening effect (a.k.a. white cast) is not the desired effect. They work best on fair–light skin tone.

As far as I understand, the k-beauty meaning of “tone up” is a bit different.

Question: Can you recommend an alternative for the Anessa BB foundation that is good for outdoor activities?

This. I think it best suits someone with combination-dry skin.

Question: Do you use styling tools and blowdryers? If you do, which ones? What are your thoughts on the Dyson blowdryer?

I use the Dyson Airwrap Complete. Mostly just the dryer and paddle brush attachments. Do read the full-page review I’ve written on it.

Question: Do you only apply shampoo to your roots and conditioner to your ends, or does it not matter?

I feel that depends on your hair.

I’ve bleached highlights so I apply a lighter conditioner nearly from root to tip then followed with a richer conditioner/treatment on just ends.

If your hair isn’t coloured or bleached, I don’t think it matters that much.

Question: Favorite Japanese drugstore shampoo + conditioner? I know you use Olaplex now

&honey and Clayge.

I switch between Olaplex and other brands of shampoos and conditioners.

MICELLANEOUS

Question: Does Amazon JPN sell real products? Could shops in Japan accidentally bring in counterfeit?

It depends on what you’re buying.

For Japanese drugstore products, Amazon Japan is one of the most reliable online retailers out there. Most major brands’ Japanese websites actually refer Japanese consumers to Amazon Japan for those wishing to buy online because they supply products directly to them.

Shiseido, Kose, Kanebo, Rohto, and Kao all link to them.

Amazon Japan has an entirely different operation, which is why you cannot use the same login details from other countries’ Amazon. You need to create a new account from scratch and nothing you purchased there can be transferred.

Question: What beauty YouTuber do you watch? Favorite Asian beauty YouTubers?

None since I don’t watch them.

I don’t have the patience for these kinds of videos. I like videos to see something being demonstrated such as cooking, but talking for several minutes and holding up packages of products is neither helpful nor entertaining (at least for me). This could have been covered easily and more efficiently with a post.

Question: Do you buy and try/test most of the products you write about on your website?

Buy? No! I only buy products I actually use or genuinely have an interest in. I estimate that I’ve tried roughly 60–70% of the products (some albeit just once or twice) via a mix of samples and gifts.

Question: Favorite mobile game? What video games do you play?

I don’t have any games on my phone. That being said, I can spend my entire afternoon happily playing Diablo 3 on my Switch while watching a show. I find it incredibly relaxing.

Question: Can you please share your patterns? I love your amigurumi ^^ Where can I buy your pattern (chart)? My husband is a big fan of anime 😀

Thank you for the love! Most of the stuff I make now is done freehand with the help of reference photos. I’ve made personal notes but I haven’t written any patterns.