Have you given much thought to how you cleanse your skin every night? Do you remove makeup and cleanse skin in one step? Do you place closer attention to one area on your face than other? Which area do you start first? Are you massaging your face when youโre removing makeup?
I canโt stress enough the importance of good cleansing every night, especially if you have problem-prone skin. Not just a quick once-over but a proper cleanse that leaves skin perfectly clean, but not stripped and dried out โ or leave a residue behind. Itโs all about gentle but very thorough cleansing.
One of the most important, if not the most important, step in a Japanese skincare routine is known as โdouble cleansingโ. (Do read my post on Japanese skincare routine if you havenโt done so.) Not washing your face twice with the same productย โ as the name suggests โ but rather, removing makeup and cleansing skin (to wash away sebum, bacteria, and residue) in two separate steps. Rubbing, massaging, and wiping with cotton wool pads or wash cloths are all a big no-no. You want to let the products do all the work. (Facial massage is done only on clean skin.)
Lifting makeup from skin so that impurities can be easily wash away is the motto for step 1 in Double Cleansing. In Japan, removing makeup is called โcleansingโ โ and cleansing skin is referred as โwashingโ. Products like cleansing oils are a makeup removers and theyโre not meant to be used alone. Itโs generally recommended to start with the sides of the face as it is the largest surface area with makeup on, and continue on to the T-zone, then finish with rest of the face. If your eye area is sensitive, itโs best to use a separate eye makeup remover as some can cause irritation. 
On the other hand, step 2 (or โwashingโ), should start with (and focus on) the oiliness part of the face (T-zone) and end with the driest, which is generally the cheek area. The reason is that the main point of the second step is to wash off excess sebum and dirt from the skin, while ensuring residue of loosened makeup from previous step is removed. If you do it reverse, the drier areas can become even more dried out, eventually leading to a whole slew other problems.
Facial cleansers, or face washes, in Japan are the foaming variety. Unlike Western counterparts, these cleansing foams are sulphate-free and work to an ultra-dense foamy lather that resembles whipped marshmallow. The idea is that the there should be absolutely no friction and minimal skin-to-skin contact when washing the skin. These Japanese foaming cleansers should never be directly applied to wet face (unless theyโre the self-foaming variety)! The correct way is to work product into a rich foamy lather using your hands, then use fingertips to glide foam to wash face without making direct skin-to-skin contact. If you find you canโt do so with yours, youโre either not using enough product, not lathering properly, or you just have a poorly formulated cleansing foam.
I highly recommend getting a foaming net. You use it to work into a foamy lather in lieu of your handsย โ it enhances the lather, saves time, and saves product! Itโs included with some (newer) cleansers, but you can buy one for about 105 JPY. Thereโre some โfancierโ ones that resemble a mini body wash puffย or have sponge pieces attached, but I personally find plain washing net (like the one pictured to the left) works best.
Your skin will not be happy with if you rub it with facial cleanser, trying to remove the layers sunscreen and long-wearing foundation. Haphazard or over zealous cleansing works against skin, often leading to a seemingly endless cycle of problems. If you have oiliness, dry patches, continuous breakouts, or skin congestion and nothing seems to be able to help at it, I recommend taking a close look at how you cleanse your skin every night.
Is cleansing recommended only for sunscreen/make-up removal or does it also benefit oily skin? Thank you!
Thank you so much! Ooh cow brand!
Hello there ๐ With so much negativity over foaming/soapy cleansers, I was wondering if you think the second step cleansing should still be done with a foam? I generally find that foaming cleansers can make my skin feel tight, although so many Japanese women have gorgeous skin and all these companies that make foaming cleansers canโt be wrong?!
I feel the negativity over foaming face washes pertains only to the Western media as itโs non-existing in Japan. A skincare routine should be tailored to fit your own skinโs needs. You donโt have to use cleansing foams. That being said, if you want to double cleanse the โcorrectโ way, you donโt really have many options. Most if not all face washes in Japan are the foaming variety (as cleansing oils/milks/gels/creams are all classified as makeup removers NOT cleansers).
Iโve been using Cetaphil products. Either the bar/facial cleanser/foam wash will do. Definitely worked/works wonders for me. ๐
I donโt do a โdouble cleansingโ but I honestly want to give it a try. Quite torn about the โcleansing oilโ as I do have an acne-prone skin until I was advised to take accutane. I was acne-free for years but early this year, I had to re-take it again. Currently on my 3rd month now. Hopefully, done by next month. Anyway, Iโm quite afraid to give cleansing oils a try since it might break me outโฆ
Cetaphil alone wonโt do an adequate job at removing makeup or long wearing sunscreens. Thereโre many forms of makeup removers beside cleansing oils.
Hi, if i use the banila co oil cleanser followed by bifesta cleansing water lotion, is it consider double cleansing? or is both step 1?
Micellar cleansers (a.k.a. โcleansing waterโ or โcleansing liquidโ) like the one by Bifesta is a categorized as a a makeup remover in Japan โ and so are cleansing oils (a.k.a. oil cleansers).
Washing your face with bar soap is the worst thing you could do! Unfortunately my mom was raised old school and I grew up washing my face with bar soap, and it left my face a mess. I ONLY use natural milky face cleansers now that are super gentle. Now I have been obsessed with the Made from Earth Green Tea Cleanser โ because it is EXCELLENT at removing foundation.
I am also VERY sensitive around my eyes, and this Made from Earth Cleanser is so gentle when I remove my eye make โ my eyes dont water at all. STOP USING BAR SOAP! I cant stress that enough !
Hello Ratzilla, from my understanding double cleansing is when you have makeup on or if your sunblock is tenacious ( does that mean it clogs pores?) I see you have done reviews on the biore sunscreen series and Iโm wondering if I use the biore face milk (the white one) is there need for double cleansing?
A sunscreen that is tenacious means it has an extra long-wearing formula that is difficult to remove.
Yes, you should be doubling cleansing (i.e. use a separate makeup remover) for the entire Biore Perfect UV line (all the milks).
ah I see, thank you. I shall do that.
Hi, the only chemical I described as my daily make-up is a sun block, do you think I still need this โdouble cleansingโ? I only do the โwaterโ foaming facial wash, without cleansing it before. Sorry for such a basic question. Thanks
If you wear makeup or tenacious sunscreen, itโs best to use a separate remover 1st.
Delivery in Brazil?
and how do I buy?
accepts international dollar card?
Hi, I stumbled upon your site about a month ago and have been reading religiously since. Thanks so much for all the information and tips.
Iโm approaching 30 and only recently realized that I have neglected taking care of my skin. Cannot believe how I could be so ignorant!!! Anyway, after reading your site, I have started double cleansing (Shu Uemura cleansing oil + Shiseido Perfect Whip) + SK II Facial Treatment Essence for about 3 weeks and have started to see some improvement, which is a great encouragement.
Iโll be visiting Japan soon and plan to stock-up on some Japanese skincare products. I have some questions though, appreciate if you could help me out as Iโm a total newbie in this subject.
โ Iโm interested in trying Kose Sekkisei line. Can I use both Sekkisei Medicated Lotion and SK II FTE (Sekkisei first, then SK II) or is that not necessary?
โ Iโve heard raves about Estee Lauder Advance Night Repair and want to try this as well. Are there any similar Japanese skincare product that you can recommend?
โ Iโm also looking for a day moisturizer with nice sun protection but non-greasy as I live in South East Asia where itโs super hot and humid. Can you suggest a few that might be available in Matsumoto Kiyoshi?
โ I donโt see why you canโt use them together, but itโs hard to say whether your skin will see the benefits. I personally use neither. Iโd say go for the small trial size bottle first.
-I donโt know much about Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair, other than it is quite popular. Its key ingredient is Bifida Ferment Lysate, a yeast ferment filtrate โ Googling its ingredients will probably find something similar although not necessarily Japanese.
Thank you so much for your posts! Iโm trying out new routines for my dry but acne prone skin and this could not be more helpful! I was very confused about which order to use these types of products. Now itโs clear!
Iโm using Shu Uemura cleansing oil, and as their recommendation I donโt use soap/second step after that, and everything is just fine. This one step makes me choose this product, though more expensive I still donโt need to buy soap/second step and I can finish my cleansing routine faster. Do you know why this product doesnโt need the second step? Is there any drugstore cleansing oil that doesnโt need second step? And is there any kind of cleansing oil for body/shower? My skin is getting drier, and most moisturizing soap like Dove donโt help much to me. Thanking you in advance for your answer, ๐
Why? Marketingโฆ to justify their high pricetag โ all cleansing oils rinse off clean with just water (some better than others). There is nothing special or different about Shu Uemuraโs cleansing oils. Many drugstore cleansing oils claim the samething. Like I said in the post, cleansing oils are simply makeup removers โ double cleansing shouldnโt be skipped.
Hi ratzillacosme, I want to ask, do I need to double cleanse if im only using loose Powder? (im wearing chanel poudre libre and itโs very light) Im also wondering , can I use only cleansing oil and finish there? (not continuing the second step) As I double cleansing, if done everyday, has made my skin dry and tight.
The products youโre using arenโt right for your skin type. Your skin shouldnโt be left dry and tight after you double cleanse.
If you donโt feel the need to, then donโt โ skin care should be personalised to fit your own needs. Personally, I always do both as the 1st step is to remove makeup and the 2nd step is the wash off the remaining crap that might still be on the skin.
hello there!! i am currently using the hadalabo cleansing oil. however, it makes my vision cloudy. =( is that normal, let alone safe? what would you recommend a cleansing oil that does my vision blurry and is inexpensive?
p.s. i LOVE your website!!!! so informative!
Normal? Some do, some donโt. Iโve tested cleansing oils that left my eyes burning and some that left my vision all blurry till the next morning!
Fanclโs Mild Cleansing Oil has been my longtime favourite for years even after multiple reformulations. More budget-friendly ones I like are Softymo cleansing oils (only negligible difference between all 3), Hipitch Deep Cleansing Oil W, and Cow Brand Mutenka Cleansing Oil.
Hi there, Iโve been stalking your blog lately and iโm just wondering
do I need to use a cleansing oil if im only using Biore Watery Essence Sunscreen ( I reapply 3 times a day anyway, a dilligent apprentiece of yours right here!)
Do you think I can clean BB cream with normal foam cleanser ( I use seba med) as some people said bb creams are easy to clean yet there is this other side who stated the opposite.
And the last, If iโm not wearing any bb cream nor sunscreen (Sorry! but you know those days when you feel extra lazy), do I need to use cleansing oil? Can I use cleansing oil, like, every night? Iโm scared if it will peel my skin off, and If I do use it every night, then I wouldnt need any scrub? I mean, just imagining using double cleansing and scrub soundsโฆ scary. And anyway (promise this is the last) which one do you think is the best between kose softymo, innisfree greentea, muji, or hada labo c/o?
Anyway thanks a lot and sorry for the extra long post, your blog has been really helpful since im using aha creams now and i need to slather sunscreen all over my body! Thanksss : *
A regular foaming face wash is enough to fully remove the Biore Watery Essence sunscreen.
โBB cream is easy to cleanโ? That would depends on the BB cream in question. Many, many Japanese BB creams have a longwearing formula that is oil and sweat resistant. Since BB cream is a makeup item, you should remove it using a makeup remover 1st.
Cleansing oil is a makeup remover not a cleanser, so if youโre not wearing makeup nor longwearing sunscreen, no need to use one. Also, it has nothing to do with exfoliants like scrubs. Theyโre for completley different purpose and have nothing to do with each other. If you need to exfoliate your skin, using a cleansing oil wonโt make a difference either way.
I love your post about Japanese Skincare Routine ๐ I would like know more about anti-age Japanese Skincare Routine โ please write post about it ๐ Thx so much ๐ regards from Poland ๐
Hi, Iโm from Brasil and I do not speak english very well, but Iโll try to explane my doubt. I realy would like to find 1 (only one) product to make the Double Cleansing, something convenient/pratical/faster and whith a friendly price. Could you suggest something? Tks a lot! Greetings from Brasil!
You can always use just 1 product but thatโs not double cleansing anymore. Thereโre some makeup removers now that claim to eliminate the need for double cleansing (please browse the Makeup Removers section), you can perhaps look into those.
You want something, cheap, use olive oil or avocado oil or macadamia oil as makeup remover and use foam cleanser as your second step :))
Yes, thatโs also an option but itโs not the same.
The idea is of step 1 is to remove the makeup from the skin. Plain oil โmeltโ the makeup, but unlike a cleansing oil, everything just sits on the skin as it cannot be easily removed on its own โ unless youโre rinsing with very hot water or wiping it off, both are highly not recommended and youโre still left with quite an oily residue.
Oh, yeh sorry, I always wipe it off with unfraganced baby wipes. But you are right, it can be oily, so recently I discovered Sorbolene, just normal moisturising lotion, no fragance. It works like a dream :)) Iโm from Australia so Iโm not sure if they sell it every where else? But Iโm sure you will be able to find similar cream.
Olรก Nuria, tambem sou brasileira e por isso estou falando em portugues ( rs) acredito que os oleos ( perfect oil) fazem isso que vc quer ou seja, derretem a maquiagem e saem com agua nรฃo necessitando utilizar o passo 2 ( sabonete ou espuma de limpeza) eu te recomendo o da biore ou o da shiseido . Sรฃo maravilhosos eu uso no meu dia a dia e nรฃo me arrependo. caso queira comprar no brasil a pronta entrega eu vendo me da um toque por email.Bjs ( [email protected])
Thereโs The 3 in 1 cleanser 3.0.1 from Chica y Chico which is a gel that becomes oil and finally bubble foam!! Itโs about 20$ so itโs a bit expensive but itโs one product for double cleansing!
Im a bit confused ; is it the first step_makeup removing process_ that the product must not be applied on wet face or is it the second step??
Majority of Japanese makeup removers (e.g. cleansing oils, cleansing gels, cleansing liquids, etc.) should be applied using dry hands on dry face.
Im a bit confused is it in the makeup removing process the product must not be applied on wet face??
Itโs my first time buying cleanser in Japan and I have been recommended DHC oil to cleanse and Dr Ci Labo to wash. My skin is oily in the t zone but not overly so, and I have very occasional breakouts. I would really value your opinion before I invest.
Iโm personally not a fan of DHC Deep Cleansing Oil although I know many love it. Iโve just started to test Dr. Ci:Labo Super Washing Foam EX (http://www.ci-labo.com.sg/product/bce6d1f729d11b5e6556a5b96b634c59/) and itโs quite lovely.
Is this washing bar for the face too? (According to the company). TKS.
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/master/s411820h0610/
Yes. Itโs for the face.
Which oil and foaming cleanser do you recommend for double cleansing?
It really depends on your skin type and your own personal preferences. I prefer cleansing oil + Japanese foaming face wash (cleansing foam).
I personally dislike thick-textured oils, but other than that, Iโm not picky at all. Same with face wash. I generally always have several cleansing oils and washes that Iโm trying out so I rarely use the same thing day after day. That being said, I have personally repurchased Fancl, ORP Tokyo, and Cow Brand Mutenka cleansing oils many times. For foaming face washes, Iโm currently liking Biore Skincare Facial Foam. The entire line is excellent, especially for its price! I especially like the Medicated Acne one. Cleansing Researchโs is good as well. Oilier skin might like the classic Senka Perfect Whip from Shiseido.
Thanks! This is helpful.
Where can you purchase the foaming net online?
How do you use a foaming net? I donโt understandโฆ
You dispense product directly onto the foaming net, add warm water and rub to make foam. Then take the foam (by pulling the net through your fingers, scraping/squeezing all the foam out) and use it to cleanse skin.
Thank you ๐